jewelry making

Getting started: My metalsmithing journey

I get asked every so often how I first stumbled into the world of metal jewelry, so I thought I’d share the story here on the blog. It wasn’t planned— it was simply one small decision that opened a door I didn’t know I’d been looking for.
A Class That Changed Everything - It started when I signed up for an extension metalsmithing class at UCLA. I didn’t have expectations or a grand artistic vision. I just felt curious. On the very first day, my instructor placed a small silver ingot in my hand and showed me how to cut it with a jeweler’s saw. That moment hooked me instantly. Working with metal felt grounding, almost meditative.
Falling Down the Rabbit Hole of Tools- Once I realized how much I loved it, I did what any newly obsessed maker does: I started collecting tools. A bench pin, jeweler’s saw, blades, a small torch, beeswax, pliers, files, solder, flux, a pickle pot, brushes, a vise, a third hand, a ring mandrel, a rawhide hammer, and eventually a whole assortment of other tools I didn’t know existed before.
Learning From Books, Artists, and Anyone Who Would Teach Me - I devoured every metalsmithing book I could find. I signed up for a couple more seminars with artists whose work inspired me, eager to understand their techniques.
And that’s how it began. There was no dramatic turning point — just one class, one tool, one silver ingot, and a spark that never went out. What started as curiosity became a craft, a practice, and eventually a part of what I do.

Maddalena Bearzi at the jewelry bench with an ingot of silver and a saw

How to oxidize silver for jewelry making

Oxidizing silver is one of my favorite techniques when I make jewelry. It’s a straightforward process that adds depth, contrast, and character to my pieces. A darkened surface helps highlight details like hammer marks, engraving, and granulation. Oxidizing silver also makes pieces feel more organic and lived-in. Whether I want a dramatic finish or to make textures stand out, creating a dark patina is safe and relatively simple with minimal equipment.

Ingredients: Liver of sulfur, a heat‑safe glass or ceramic container, warm water, baking soda, soft cloth or fine steel wool, gloves, and finally good ventilation.

Step‑by‑Step: Creating the Patina

  1. Clean your silver thoroughly. Oils and fingerprints will cause uneven tones. A quick scrub with dish soap or a dip in a jewelry cleaner works well.

  2. Mix your liver of sulfur. Fill your container with warm water and add a small amount of liver of sulfur. The warmer the water and the stronger the solution, the faster and darker the patina will develop.

  3. Dip your silver. Submerge the piece, and watch the color change — it typically shifts from golden to deep charcoal within seconds. Keep it in until you achieve the shade you prefer.

  4. Rinse and neutralize. Remove the piece and place it in a baking‑soda‑and-water bath to stop the reaction.

  5. Refine the finish. If you want contrast, lightly buff raised areas with a soft cloth or steel wool. This leaves the dark patina in the recesses while bringing back shine on the high points.

    The cresta abissale brooch in the image, for sale in the online shop, was handmade using this technique.

Sea salt for jewelry-making? Why not.

Using household items like vinegar, lemon, sea salt, and water to handcraft jewelry is nothing new. To make unique pieces, it’s enough to use some imagination… and have a basic knowledge of jewelry-making. These “riflessi blu” earrings – inspired by reflections on the water surface -  are handmade using several products that I found in my house. The process takes two to three days, but it’s worth the wait. What do you think?

Riflessi blu earrings handcrafted in Maddalena Bearzi’s studio, Los Angeles, California, using different techniques and a patina made with household items

Everyday materials for jewelry-making

One of the things that I like the most about jewelry-making is to create pieces that are totally original and one of a kind. I often oxidize silver, bronze, and copper and add patinas to produce exclusive pairs of earrings, rings, cuffs, or necklaces. I also use everyday household materials like sea salt and fine salt, eggs, water, vinegar, etc. to change colors and/or add texture to a specific piece. The result? Pieces that are always different from each other (and fun to make!)

Model Frances wear necklace and earrings from the costellazione collection. These jewels are made by hand using different techniques, including oxidation.