One of My Favorite Metalsmiths: Harold O’Connor

Every artist has a handful of makers who shape their creative path, and for me, Harold O’Connor is one of those rare influences. I had the chance to take one of his workshops several years ago, diving into techniques like granulation and reticulation—processes he not only mastered but elevated into an art form. That experience left a lasting mark on the way I approach metal.
O’Connor has been a practicing goldsmith for more than forty years, and his work has traveled far beyond the studio bench. His pieces appear in both private and public collections around the world, including The National Ornamental Metal Museum in Memphis, The Goldsmiths’ Hall in London, the Cesky Raj Museum in the Czech Republic, The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and even The Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.
He’s also the author of several respected books—The Jeweler’s Bench Reference being one I return to often.
Below is one of my own pieces, the pianeta in verde necklace, created with O’Connor’s techniques in mind. His influence continues to guide my hands at the bench, reminding me that technique and imagination are always in conversation.

One of my handmade pendants inspired by nature and by Harold O’Connor’s techniques.

How to oxidize silver for jewelry making

Oxidizing silver is one of my favorite techniques when I make jewelry. It’s a straightforward process that adds depth, contrast, and character to my pieces. A darkened surface helps highlight details like hammer marks, engraving, and granulation. Oxidizing silver also makes pieces feel more organic and lived-in. Whether I want a dramatic finish or to make textures stand out, creating a dark patina is safe and relatively simple with minimal equipment.

Ingredients: Liver of sulfur, a heat‑safe glass or ceramic container, warm water, baking soda, soft cloth or fine steel wool, gloves, and finally good ventilation.

Step‑by‑Step: Creating the Patina

1. Clean your silver thoroughly. Oils and fingerprints will cause uneven tones. A quick scrub with dish soap or a dip in a jewelry cleaner works well.

2. Mix your liver of sulfur. Fill your container with warm water and add a small amount of liver of sulfur. The warmer the water and the stronger the solution, the faster and darker the patina will develop.

3. Dip your silver. Submerge the piece, and watch the color change — it typically shifts from golden to deep charcoal within seconds. Keep it in until you achieve the shade you prefer.

4. Rinse and neutralize. Remove the piece and place it in a baking‑soda‑and-water bath to stop the reaction.

5. Refine the finish. If you want contrast, lightly buff raised areas with a soft cloth or steel wool. This leaves the dark patina in the recesses while bringing back shine on the high points.

   The cresta abissale brooch in the image, for sale in the online shop, was handmade using this technique.

What is reticulation in jewelry-making?

Reticulation is a process that allows to achieve a textured surface on a metal - such as silver - after heating it. The final result consists of an interesting surface with ripples and ridges. The “pianeta verde” pendant in the image was created with this unique process.

A planet ("pianeta" in the language of the designer) with a touch of "grass" inspired the design of this unique necklace handmade with the process of reticulation. The piece is available online.